Helping with Hyperpigmentation

Hyperpigmentation is the overproduction of a pigment in the skin known as melanin, this basically means dark patches appear on the surface of the skin . At times it is heredity, due to hormonal changes and can also occur due to overexposure of sunlight. Hyperpigmentation tends more common with darker skin types (such as Asian/Indian, African, etc) and I get quite a lot of questions about how to treat it. Please bear in mind that I am talking about mild to moderate hyperpigmentation here, if you have a more severe issue then I would recommend seeing a skin specialist for a tailored treatment which will give you more effective results.

Firstly, I have to mention the importance of sun protection…even if you like in sunny England like me! Using products contacting SPF helps to protect the skin from further hyperpigmentation from occurring, sitting in the sun hoping you will get an even tan to help hide any dark spots will in fact make it worse. It’s also important to counteract the early signs of ageing so it really is a must. My daily routine always contains layering SPF’s, I start with my high SPF moisturiser, an SPF foundation/bb cream and a finally a powder containing SPF protection too (just to be on the safe side).

There are so many products on the market which claim they are the best when dealing with hyperpigmentation..  In an attempt to help you make a more informed decision, and having some hyperpigmentation myself,  have put together a list of my top ingredients that I would look out for;

Niacinamide – This ingredient is widely known (and praised) for being great at treating hyperpigmentation. It works by blocking melanin transfer to the outer layers of the skin, which has been shown to decrease hyperpigmentation and also improve melasma. Lots of clinical research has also been done around the positive effects of Niacinamide and it’s definitely worth checking out. I have just started using Zelens Luminous Brightening Serum which contains high amount of this ingredient (as well as many other active ingredients). After just a few days, I am already seeing a huge difference in the tone and texture of my skin, it’s pretty amazing to say the least!

Glycolic Acid – This is an all-rounder for your skin. Glycolic acid rejuvenates the skin by penetrating the uppermost layer of the epidermis. It helps break apart the dead, damaged cells for easier removal and exposes the healthier layer of skin beneath. It can therefore help to fade the effects of hyperpigmentation by gradually peeling away dark marks and scars. It does a good job of giving your skin an overall glow and brightness. The key is to regularly use glycolic acid for improved results, this can either be on a daily basis with an mild glycolic toner or more stronger/highly concentrated peels which should be done only at professional beauty salons.

Vitamin C – This vitamin increases the production of collagen in the skin, a great antioxidant and works to brighten the skin. It also helps with hyperpigmentation by its natural tyrosinase inhibitors. These inhibitors help prevent enzymes in your body from producing excessive amounts of melanin which in turn reduces the appearance of brown/age spots, freckles and many other pigmentation related issues. There are many skincare products that contain this vitamin and are affordable too so it makes it a great place to start if you are dealing with mild hyperpigmentation. However, creams/lotions/serums etc containing vitamin c can oxidise fairly quickly so once it starts to go dark or brown in colour it’s no longer worth using.. it’s actually counter-effective.

Liquorice root – Similar to vitamin c, the extract from liquorice root is naturally high in glabridin which is a chemical compound that inhibits tyrosinase. Studies have shown it may be of benefit in skin lightening products as it contains properties  which induce skin lightening by dispersing melanin pigment and enhancing more even pigment distribution. Using products that contain liquorice root extract or powder will lighten the dark spots and brighten the rest of the skin. It also works on reducing inflammation which can lead to further scaring and discoloration in addition to having antibacterial and antioxidant properties. It works well with other ingredients too as its natural and safe, you will find that many skin care brands use liquorice root in their skin brightening product ranges.

Frankincense & Sandalwood Essential Oils – While they may sound like they would make a lovely fragranced candle, these two ingredients can help to naturally treat hyperpigmentation. Sandalwood helps to reduce any inflammation and counteracts any discoloration and frankincense aids cellular turnover to revitalise skin and minimise the appearance of scars and wrinkles. Many premium brightening face oils contain these in their formulas, the essential oils by the themselves are quite cheap to buy and can easily be incorporated into your skin care routine for an added radiance boost.  

A note about Hydroquinone. This ingredient widely used in skin lightening products in the US, however, it is not available here in the UK (or Europe). Whilst it may affective in some cases, it can cause some adverse side effects on the skin such as increased irritation/sensitivity and tissue discoloration with darker skin tones which may mean it’s not safe for everyone to use. Even though I am always on the lookout for the newest treatments, I would avoid products containing hydroquinone.. it’s not worth the risk, my skin is far too important to me. 

As always, please feel free to leave your comments below! 

Xoxo 

Is my shampoo damaging my skin??

I have made a recent discovery since using the TRESemmé 24 Hour Body Shampoo and Conditioner. I normally stick with premium brands for my hair but as December is a pretty expensive month (spending too much on skincare probably doesn’t help!) I thought I would try this out seeing as though it was on offer for just a few quid and the bottles are huge at 750ml.

 

I immediately realised it was rubbish for my hair. It was ok on the first day I washed it but the very next day my hair would feel greasy at the roots but very dry at the ends. I kept using it (so I could get through it quicker) and used dry shampoo for my roots and hair oil for my ends in the hope of making the best of a bad situation! It’s made me realise that it is definitely worth spending that bit extra for a product that does a better job and keeps my hair in good condition, quality over quantity wins every time.

However, what’s made me finally pour it down the drain today is what its actually doing to my face! In the past I have talked about how physical exfoliators make me come out in red little bumps on my skin and this is why I much prefer to use acid exfoliators. Whilst this still occurs nearly every time, however, I have noticed that the irritation predominately occurs around my mouth, nose and chin area.

I think that my skin is showing signs of ‘perioral dermatitis’ which is a separate skin issue entirely. Perioral dermatitis is a rash and/or, small red or pink lumpy spots develop on the skin anywhere around the outside of the mouth, they may appear on the chin, cheeks, and the skin next to and below the nose. For more info on this condition, check out; http://patient.info/health/perioral-dermatitis-leaflet

I have noticed that this has been happening for a while now and I couldn’t put my finger on what was actually causing it. I tried to slaver on sudocream, eczema cream, facial oils, and so on to try to reduce the redness and inflammation around my mouth, nose and chin. I don’t think its terribly bad, not compared to if you google perioral dermatitis, but it does feel slightly sore at times and I feel as though you can see the bumps under my make up, I never had this problem before. It is more prominent when I have hot showers (I shower in near boiling temperatures, this doesn’t help either!) which leads me to smothering my face with aloe vera gel which is one of the only things which would calm it slightly.

However, when I used the Tresemme shampoo and conditioner yesterday I could see the usual irritation but after a while my chin was covered in little bumps and around my nose was very red and sore looking, much more the usual.  I had changed nothing in my skincare routine and I couldn’t understand what was causing it. After some research, I found many people saying that shampoos containing sulfates can exacerbate the problem further along with certain cosmetics, especially those that are petrolatum or paraffin-based or contain isopropyl myristate and topical steroid creams. Before using Tresemme, I used the ‘LOréal Hair Expertise EverPure Colour Care & Volume Shampoo’ which contains no sulfates and I don’t remember having any flare ups, or nearly this bad ...hey presto, I think I have found the reason!

I was never really bothered if my shampoo contained sulfates or not, as long as it did a good job who cares? Whilst sulfates help to make you hair feel clean and free of grease/dirt, I have realised that this can potentially be overly drying for my coloured hair and an unnecessary irritant for my skin too, not something I need in my life thanks!

Now I think I understand what’s going on, I’m making a conscious effort to ensure my haircare products are free of sulphates and my makeup and skincare doesn’t contain ingredients which could make it worse. To help with any more flare ups which I may get, I have recently bought the ‘Avene Cicalfate Cream’ which contains properties such thermal spring water and sulcrafates which protect and sooth irritated skin. It also contains zinc which is widely used to treat perioral dermatitis… I hope it works!

I know that this is a bit of a random blog post, but I hope you found it insightful.

Please share your comment/thoughts, I would love to know if you have had similar experience!

Xoxo