Helping with Hyperpigmentation

Hyperpigmentation is the overproduction of a pigment in the skin known as melanin, this basically means dark patches appear on the surface of the skin . At times it is heredity, due to hormonal changes and can also occur due to overexposure of sunlight. Hyperpigmentation tends more common with darker skin types (such as Asian/Indian, African, etc) and I get quite a lot of questions about how to treat it. Please bear in mind that I am talking about mild to moderate hyperpigmentation here, if you have a more severe issue then I would recommend seeing a skin specialist for a tailored treatment which will give you more effective results.

Firstly, I have to mention the importance of sun protection…even if you like in sunny England like me! Using products contacting SPF helps to protect the skin from further hyperpigmentation from occurring, sitting in the sun hoping you will get an even tan to help hide any dark spots will in fact make it worse. It’s also important to counteract the early signs of ageing so it really is a must. My daily routine always contains layering SPF’s, I start with my high SPF moisturiser, an SPF foundation/bb cream and a finally a powder containing SPF protection too (just to be on the safe side).

There are so many products on the market which claim they are the best when dealing with hyperpigmentation..  In an attempt to help you make a more informed decision, and having some hyperpigmentation myself,  have put together a list of my top ingredients that I would look out for;

Niacinamide – This ingredient is widely known (and praised) for being great at treating hyperpigmentation. It works by blocking melanin transfer to the outer layers of the skin, which has been shown to decrease hyperpigmentation and also improve melasma. Lots of clinical research has also been done around the positive effects of Niacinamide and it’s definitely worth checking out. I have just started using Zelens Luminous Brightening Serum which contains high amount of this ingredient (as well as many other active ingredients). After just a few days, I am already seeing a huge difference in the tone and texture of my skin, it’s pretty amazing to say the least!

Glycolic Acid – This is an all-rounder for your skin. Glycolic acid rejuvenates the skin by penetrating the uppermost layer of the epidermis. It helps break apart the dead, damaged cells for easier removal and exposes the healthier layer of skin beneath. It can therefore help to fade the effects of hyperpigmentation by gradually peeling away dark marks and scars. It does a good job of giving your skin an overall glow and brightness. The key is to regularly use glycolic acid for improved results, this can either be on a daily basis with an mild glycolic toner or more stronger/highly concentrated peels which should be done only at professional beauty salons.

Vitamin C – This vitamin increases the production of collagen in the skin, a great antioxidant and works to brighten the skin. It also helps with hyperpigmentation by its natural tyrosinase inhibitors. These inhibitors help prevent enzymes in your body from producing excessive amounts of melanin which in turn reduces the appearance of brown/age spots, freckles and many other pigmentation related issues. There are many skincare products that contain this vitamin and are affordable too so it makes it a great place to start if you are dealing with mild hyperpigmentation. However, creams/lotions/serums etc containing vitamin c can oxidise fairly quickly so once it starts to go dark or brown in colour it’s no longer worth using.. it’s actually counter-effective.

Liquorice root – Similar to vitamin c, the extract from liquorice root is naturally high in glabridin which is a chemical compound that inhibits tyrosinase. Studies have shown it may be of benefit in skin lightening products as it contains properties  which induce skin lightening by dispersing melanin pigment and enhancing more even pigment distribution. Using products that contain liquorice root extract or powder will lighten the dark spots and brighten the rest of the skin. It also works on reducing inflammation which can lead to further scaring and discoloration in addition to having antibacterial and antioxidant properties. It works well with other ingredients too as its natural and safe, you will find that many skin care brands use liquorice root in their skin brightening product ranges.

Frankincense & Sandalwood Essential Oils – While they may sound like they would make a lovely fragranced candle, these two ingredients can help to naturally treat hyperpigmentation. Sandalwood helps to reduce any inflammation and counteracts any discoloration and frankincense aids cellular turnover to revitalise skin and minimise the appearance of scars and wrinkles. Many premium brightening face oils contain these in their formulas, the essential oils by the themselves are quite cheap to buy and can easily be incorporated into your skin care routine for an added radiance boost.  

A note about Hydroquinone. This ingredient widely used in skin lightening products in the US, however, it is not available here in the UK (or Europe). Whilst it may affective in some cases, it can cause some adverse side effects on the skin such as increased irritation/sensitivity and tissue discoloration with darker skin tones which may mean it’s not safe for everyone to use. Even though I am always on the lookout for the newest treatments, I would avoid products containing hydroquinone.. it’s not worth the risk, my skin is far too important to me. 

As always, please feel free to leave your comments below! 

Xoxo